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    Home > Magazine > Content

    On the Scene: City Scenes: Portland
    Posted on Saturday, September 03, 2005 @ 16:20:00 PDT
    Topic: Local


    Roses. Flowing river. Microbrews. Rock. Community. What springs to mind when this writer thinks of Portland, Oregon? Perfection. Having traveled all over this country of varied landscapes and cityscapes, I can say, without question, that Portland not only sticks out in m my mind as one of the cities I could truly settle down in for the long haul, but also in my heart and soul. This city thrives on community, and that sentiment spills over into the everyday life and quirky nature of a city that is culturally and intellectually progressive. While the music scene here tends to ebb and flow like the Willamette River that runs through the heart of the city, there's no question that Portland's centrality - situated squarely between San Francisco, Eugene, and Seattle - as a West Coast juggernaut is attractive to touring and local artists alike. There's a vibrancy that comes across in everything that happens here, perhaps reflected in the fact that it's green year round outside, and despite the more than occasional rain shower, it never occurs to you to mind. The city itself is laid out to perfection, mixing old city style with new city accessibility and livability. One day here and you feel like you're home. And those locals who are lucky enough to live here permanently will tell you proudly just why Portland is so special. The word that best describes the population here? Content.

    Compiled by Heidi Drockelman


    Portland Skyline

    Web resources for those who like to plan:


    Just the facts…did you know?

    • Portland is considered an example of outstanding urban planning. The city is known as The City of Roses. High above the city of Portland the International Rose Test Garden features more than 500 varieties of roses cultivated continuously since 1917.
    • Reportedly, Oregon has more ghost towns than any other state. Check out Hardman, Sumpter, and Shaniko.
    • In 1905 the largest log cabin in the world was built in Portland to honor the Lewis and Clark expedition.
    • While it is illegal to buy or sell marijuana in Oregon, it is legal to smoke it on your own property.
    • Oregon has no sales, restaurant or liquor tax.
    • The Nike "swoosh" logo was designed by University of Oregon student Carolyn Davidson in 1964 - four years after business undergrad Phil Knight and track coach Bill Bowerman founded the company they originally called Blue Ribbon Sports. Ms. Davidson was paid $35 dollars for her design.
    • In Portland, people are banned from whistling underwater.
    • Matt Groening, creator of The Simpsons, hails from Portland.
    • The world's smallest park, totaling 452 inches, was created in Portland on St. Patrick's Day for leprechauns and snail races.
    • Oregon and New Jersey are the only states without self-serve gas stations. According to Oregon state law, an attendant must pump your gas.
    • Portland's most prominent and revered musician and songwriter is easily the late Elliott Smith, whose unique sound branded the Portland music scene and put the NW city prominently on the music map.
    • Pavement's Stephen Malkmus currently lives in Portland.


    Mt. Hood


    This place rules! Best place to watch/play a gig:

    The Roseland Theatre (10 NW Sixth Ave., http://www.doubletee.com/) - You never know what you're in store for with the eclectic concert offerings at the Roseland, but it's a safe bet top performers or up-and-coming musicians will take the stage. It's something of a dank, dark place - just the way we like it. Friendly to both local musicians and touring rock acts, The Roseland is a bastion of rock'n roll - Portland style.

    Berbati's Pan (10 SW 3rd Ave., http://www.berbatis.com/) - A great line-up of live entertainment and tasty Mediterranean food keeps Berbati's Pan hopping. Large columns, artwork, and a 150-year-old bar shipped from Europe give the place an authentic feel, and the stellar jukebox in the pool room provides a much needed break from the American Top 40. A wide variety of regional and national names in pop, rock, and blues are featured at Berbati's, and they boast an excellent sound system. This is old world, old style, and you'll feel transported into another time and place here.

    Dante's Cafe and Cocktail Lounge (1 SW Third Ave., http://www.danteslive.com/) - An open fire pit and candlelit red tables scattered cabaret-style across the dark club give Dante's a cozy glow. The nightly inferno shifts from alt-rock bands to sultry torch singers to R&B regulars. An adjoining room with a second bar, a pool table and a classic Asteroids video game holds the overflow from the tiny performance space. On Mondays, Dante's holds karaoke with a live band, letting you fulfill your rock'n roll fantasies, and sells pizza by the slice. There's really not much reason to ever leave this joint.

    Crystal Ballroom/Lola's Room (1332 W. Burnside, http://www.mcmenamins.com/) - Every city worth its salt has one of these venues - a standby that's all-ages friendly, but still capable of producing a kickass rock show as well. While many of the acts coming through here are touring, mainstream artists, the acoustics in the third-floor ballroom remain some of the best in the city. It's never too loud here to be able to listen to the music, and the antique floor is something to behold. For the not-so-kiddie friendly, there's also Lola's Room on the second floor - bands, films, and other performances are regularly held here and there's truly something for everyone.

    Doug Fir (830 E Burnside St., http://www.dougfirlounge.com/) - Invoking the ambiance of an upscale woodsy retreat for die-hard music and drinking fans in the city, this late-night restaurant-slash-bar is located just above a counterpart subterranean live music club in a similar woodsy, retro-chic space (imagine a modernist vision of the log cabin). Doug Fir serves breakfast, lunch, dinner, and late-night platters with a menu heavily tilted toward classic Americana: burgers, filet mignon and eggs breakfast, biscuits and gravy, venison tenderloin, and field greens and blackberry salads. Open seven days a week, 21 hours a day, think truck-stop cuisine elevated several notches with the chef's affirmative nod to fresh, local ingredients. But I digress, Doug Fir is one of the hippest rooms in the city, and gaining momentum.

    Aladdin Theater (3017 SE Milwaukie Ave., http://www.aladdin-theater.com/) - Can you take an old adult theater and turn it into one of the best spots in Portland for live music? The Aladdin Theater has answered that with a resounding yes. It's the anchor business on Sellwood's most happening strip. Name acts range from Nada Surf to The Fiery Furnaces to The Black Keys to Taj Mahal. It's eclectic, but consistently a name-dropper. The Aladdin is one of the best places in the city to catch a touring act and widely considered a favorite by locals.


    Honorable Mentions:

    Tonic Lounge (3100 NE Sandy Blvd., http://www.thetoniclounge.com/) - Like daycare for grown-ups, the Tonic offers many diversions. From the dim, cozy main lounge to speed metal blasting from a hard-rocking jukebox . Down the hallway, there's live music, dancing, and DJs. Local bands ranging from straight-ahead rock to experimental are the norm. On off nights, the speakers are hooked up to a big screen TV, creating a screening room for offbeat movies and cult TV shows. Another back room is dedicated to gaming, with a pool table, video games, pinball, and video poker. Enjoy the front patio and witness the conflict between saint and sinner going on across the street, where a program for Christian teens is located next door to an adult video parlor

    Jimmy Mak's (300 NW 10th Ave., http://www.jimmymaks.com/) - This Portland club consistently reels in preeminent national touring acts and showcases local jazz and blues musicians. Upstairs, enjoy a space studded with black and white photos of jazz superstars. It's the consistency of talent and show schedules that keep the regulars pouring into Jimmy Mak's.

    Ash Street Saloon (225 SW Ash St., http://www.ashstreetsaloon.com/) - When you've tired of the many upscale brewpubs and noisy clubs in Portland, or simply begin looking for a comfy spot that's the opposite of the downtown dance scene, then Ash Street Saloon fits like a worn-to-perfection glove. There's live music several nights a week, generally of the rock variety, and the many, shall we say "interesting", characters here will keep your people-watching full for the night. Think low-key and very relaxed.

    The Green Room (2280 NW Thurman St., http://www.grpub.net/) - The Green Room hides out just beyond where the trendy Northwest shopping district becomes an industrial wasteland. This unassuming room is large and boxy, with a low stage by the front door and a bar running along the side wall. The Green Room shows its dedication to live music by hosting free shows on weeknights, and giving a rotating cast of local performers weekly showcases. Music tends towards folk rock and blues, with an occasional Irish, Latin, or uncategorizable acoustic set thrown in for diversity.

    Duff's Garage (1635 SE Seventh Ave.) - Duff's tries to evoke a working class, gritty, 1950's Americana vibe, but really, it's a little brighter, cleaner and friendlier than all that. It's more like a neighborhood spot that happens to have its own mission. The real soul of this space is American roots music, with live music several nights a week: country, rockabilly, a little surf, a little blues, some bluegrass. In other words, you're more likely to find pedal steel guitars than electronic keyboards on the low stage at the end of the room, and a lot more musicianship and less posturing than most music hotspots.

    Grand Central Bowl (808 SE Morrison St.) - One of the true punk venues in the city, underneath the Bowl lurks a huge, run-down parking garage. Music producer Double Trouble books bands several nights a week in the bowling alley but sends its all-ages punk shows to the garage below. Yes, amongst the family outings and cosmic bowling, there's a punk rock explosion waiting to get in your face.


    Portland Classical Chinese Garden


    For the gearheads (and those who stole their equipment on the road):

    Showcase Music & Sound (3401 SE Hawthorne Blvd., http://www.showcasemusicandsound.com/) - What better place to buy a guitar than from a local legend? John Chassaing is listed in the Northwest Book of Rock & Roll History and has been selling music since he was 18 years old. In 1977 he opened Showcase Music and Sound with Bill Davis, a music teacher who regularly plays in his own band. Together they have formed one of the most comprehensive independent music stores in Portland. Their inventory includes a huge selection of guitars, both electric and acoustic, with separate rooms for drums, keyboards, DJ equipment, sheet music, rentals, and woodwinds and brass.

    Pioneer Music Co. (907 SW 9th Ave., http://www.pioneermusicco.com/) - Pioneer Music Co. is a local acoustic guitar store. The small storefront is packed with acoustic accessories, amps, mandolins, ukuleles (in case you have a don ho or emo philips moment) and much more. A refreshing break from a neon-lighted and overly-enthusiastic sales-driven superstore.

    Portland Music Co. (531 SE MLK Blvd. - main store; 2502 NE Broadway; 12334 SE Division; http://www.portlandmusiccompany.com/) - Portland Music Co. is the essential local stop for musicians. They've got it all and they've got multiple locations to suit your side of town. The Broadway location doesn't carry the full line of instruments and focuses on acoustic and band instruments. If you're in a pinch, or simply want to browse, you're sure to find something here.

    Apple Music Row (225 SW First Ave., http://www.applemusicrow.com/) - Apple is locally-owned and boasts a large inventory - including over 1000 guitars. Special orders are not only welcomed, but encouraged by the friendly staff, and you can pick up anything from keyboards to drums to audio equipment (mics, amps, whatever) in addition to the stunning guitar selection. And, oh yeah, did I mention no sales tax?


    Hey DJ! Spin this! Record Stores for the hardcore:

    Music Millennium (801 NW 23rd Ave.; 3144 E Burnside St..; 3158 E Burnside St., http://www.musicmillennium.com/) - The store offers a wide variety of primarily new CDs - at the listening station, you can hear selections from about 2,000 artists - as well as some music-related books and videos. The centerpiece of the large store is a small stage with ultra-comfortable seating - a few cushy couches and several armchairs. Plop down and catch one of the roughly 200 in-store performances that Music Millennium hosts each year, ranging from local bands to punk headliners..

    2nd Avenue Records (400 SW Second Ave.) - Among Portland's oldest independent record stores (established in 1982), and certainly one of the largest, is 2nd Avenue Records. All forms of music media are available here, from CDs to tapes to vinyl LPs to 33 singles, covering a vast range of independent and mainstream music. A somewhat aloof but knowledgeable staff can direct you through the maze of options, including giving you access to the CDs, which are contained behind glass cases.

    Reverb (33623 SE Hawthorne Blvd.) - Known as the venue for finding music by the "hippest of hipsters," this '70s-throwback new/used/indie vinyl and CD empire is the work of Claes Almroth, a well-known local musician. If you are looking for anything from the last 50 years of American music, this is the place to plant your flag. Browse the huge selection of music by local (Portland and Pacific Northwest) musicians

    Discourage Rock & Roll (1737 SE Morrison, http://members.aol.com/discurge/) - A punk rock record collector's dream, Discourage Rock & Roll is located on a seedy strip. A U-shaped set of record bins dominates one corner, brimming with new and used albums and singles. You'll find a few CD's at Discourage, but most of the stock consists of gorgeous black vinyl. The selection runs the gamut from '60s garage to '70s, '80s, and '90s punk rock, garage, and hardcore. A special emphasis is placed on collectible punk records from the glory days of the late '70s, with rare 45's for sale.


    Must-visit:

    Portland Classical Chinese Garden (NW Third Ave. at NW Flanders, http://www.portlandchinesegarden.org/home) - Portland officials are proud of the fact that the city's new Classical Chinese Garden is the largest oasis of its kind outside of China. Covering a full city block and subtitled the "Garden of Awakening Orchids," it's all about the marriage of soil and stone, bark and bamboo, carved wood and babbling water. Horticulturists searched high and low to create a Suzhou-style garden, one that blends together seamlessly with the Ming Dynasty architecture. White and gray stones cover winding, tree-lined paths that lead to hidden treasures of nature and man. Ornate and sublime sculptures protect entryways and the entire garden feels like it has been in place, not for weeks, but centuries.

    Washington Park Rose Garden (4790 W. 16th St., http://www.parks.ci.portland.or.us/Parks/Washington.htm) - Washington Park has been an integral part of Portland since the 19th century. The park has boasted a sizable collection of animals for more than 100 years and it now provides a home to the beautiful Oregon Zoo. If you're a plant-lover, you're in luck as well. Stop and smell the roses in the International Rose Test Garden or relax in the Japanese Garden. There's plenty to do on rainy days, too, with the Children's Museum housed here as well. If you can't find something to pass the time in Washington Park, you really aren't trying very hard.

    Forestry Discover Center/Hoyt Arboretum (4033 SW Canyon Rd., http://www.worldforestry.org/) - While you're in Washington Park, the Forestry Discovery Center provides a wide range of events, programs, and exhibits about wildlife and forests. Though emphasis is placed on Oregon and the Pacific Northwest, exhibits also educate visitors about forests of the world. The centerpiece of the center is a 70-foot multi-lingual Douglas fir that explains nature's importance. Finally, a place for you to reenact a hobbit scene with a giant talking tree. This museum serves as a perfect complement to Hoyt Arboretum, also located in Washington Park, which contains more than 800 species of trees.

    Ground Kontrol (610 SW 12th Ave., http://www.groundkontrol.com) - Frogger, Asteroids, Pole Position, Pit Fall, and Tron. Dinosaurs that I no doubt have somewhere in my parents basement sitting alongside an Atari gameset with giant joysticks. The beauty of Ground Kontrol is that I don't need to dig through any boxes to find them. This gem of a spot is one helluva way to spend an afternoon of down time. This isn't just any old arcade, here, it's on like Donkey Kong.

    Going Street Overpass (Connects parts of North Concord Ave. in Overlook) - It's a bit strange to recommend that people visit an overpass in the middle of a city. Smacks of peculiar imagery like drug deals and people of questionable character lingering about. But, cross my heart, there's something a little bit freakier going on under this overpass. It's another chain-link corridor suspended over moving cars, but this one has dozens of padlocks hanging from the bridge's roof like creepy, theft-preventing stalactites. Weird.

    Portland Building/Portlandia Sculpture (1120 SW 5th Ave.) - Aside from housing the city government in its offices, Portland Building is home to Portlandia, the 36-foot statuette on the landing of the third floor. She is the second largest copper statue in America, just behind Lady Liberty on Staten Island. The building itself is famous for the controversy it created when it went up, back in the '80s. Designed by renowned architect Michael Graves at the height of postmodernist fever, the structure became a lightning rod for criticism and praise and brought national attention to Portland's cityscape. It's really hard to miss, just keep looking up once you hit 5th Avenue.


    Portlandia Sculpture


    Get your grub on! Pleasing your palate:

    Jake's Famous Crawfish (401 SW 12th Ave.) - First, a warning. This restaurant is not cheap. But that should tell you something about the quality of seafood you're going to get. Originally founded in 1892 to showcase crawfish, and the oldest restaurant in Portland, the crustaceans are still on the menu, but mostly a side note. Their "fresh sheet" comprises a varied list of fish and seafood that changes daily. Try the crab cakes, seafood chili, or tuna "black and blue". For the budget-conscious, they have a great happy hour menu offering everything from Caesar salads to salmon cakes at low, low prices. Dessert is worth saving room for and the Chocolate Bag is not to be missed: dark chocolate shaped like a small paper bag and filled with white chocolate mousse and fresh berries.

    Stumptown Coffee Roasters (4525 SE Division St. & 3356 SE Belmont St., http://www.stumptowncoffee.com/) - Stumptown's enormous Division Street cafe has a large coffee bar and tables and sofas for your socializing pleasure. The Belmont Street location is a bit smaller, but still quite comfy. Both feature revolving displays of local artists' work, and you'll occasionally find live music going on. This is Portland's quintessential coffee experience, and their organic, hot java is simply the best in the city.

    Bistro Montage (301 SE Morrison St.) - A mural of 'The Last Supper' framed by thousands of pieces of macaroni, bawdy catcalling of orders, and long banquet-sized tables to better acquaint you with your neighbors, all ensure a festive and memorable time at Le Bistro Montage. Keep you distance if you don't like garlic - it's in everything and it's spicy and delectable. Entrees that stand out are the spicy jambalaya, savory chicken verde, and scrumptious pan-fried oysters. Macaroni aficionados know of Montage and the in-house near religious zeal toward this baked elbow pasta. Have a good time, or the waiters will give you hell for the duration of your stay. And, oh yeah, they're open until 4 AM on the weekends.

    Junior's Cafe (1742 SE 12th Ave.) - Check your cholesterol level at the door and partake in a buttery egg scramble, spicy chicken sausage, or a fabulous pork-loin sandwich laden with garlic mayonnaise. But the greatest attraction may be the fresh-squeezed grapefruit juice mimosa that is a popular cure for too much fun the night before. The prices are very affordable, but the wait can be long. Junior's is known as the joint for your hangover cure.

    Portland City Grill (317 S. College Ave.) - This posh outpost atop Big Pink features an aerial view of Portland, the West Hills and several mountain peaks. A typical dinner for two runs about $100 including wine, dessert, and tip, but head to the bar where they offer small plates and cheaper drinks. You'll typically find 20 mini-entrees and starters under $5 during happy hours from 4:30-6:30 PM nightly and 9:30 PM-midnight Monday-Thursday. The wine list is expansive and expensive, and totally worth every penny. The bar menu makes this popular spot affordable and the view really is worth taking in at least once while you visit or live here. Best place to take visitors in the city.

    Portland Brewing Company (2730 NW 31st Ave., http://www.macsbeer.com/) - I accidentally stumbled onto this brewery and while you can ask just about everyone in the city which local microbrew to hit and they will answer with a different one each time (there is an enormous list of breweries based here), Portland Brewing remains consistent and delicious. Built in 1993, the facility houses classic copper equipment acquired from a German brewery, along with a taproom, tasting room, large fireplace, 3,000-square-foot restaurant, and a popular outdoor beer garden. The restaurant menu is affordable and tasty, and the Black Watch Cream Porter is divine.


    Speak up, Portland! If you have a favorite hangout or rants about what's included, let us and all other touring and local musicians know about it! Post your comments below and let others know where to go!


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